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Extractor tools grip the key, not the lock, and are meant to leave the pins, springs and plug as they were: hooks and spirals ride in the keyway grooves beside the fragment and draw it out the way the key travels. It is not certain, though; a deeply lodged fragment or a prior failure can still leave a lock, especially a vehicle cylinder, needing further work. Damage most often comes from what happens before the locksmith arrives, mainly tweezers, screwdrivers and glue, which is why leaving the keyway alone matters.

Because that is where the weak point was. A standard strike plate is held by two short screws in a soft wood jamb, and the deadbolt only reaches into a shallow pocket behind it. A kick delivers the full weight of a body to those screws, and the wood around them splits along the grain. The bolt itself is rarely the failure. That is why the repair concentrates on the strike side: a boxed strike, a full-depth pocket and long screws into the stud.

The face of a building that never sees direct sun stays colder and damper, so ice in a keyway lasts days longer there and condensation sits in the cylinder rather than drying off. Wind-driven rain and snow tend to hit the same face. Those doors deserve a keyhole cover, a storm door where one fits, and a lubricant check before the season turns, and they are often the first lock a locksmith asks about.

Yes, and they usually should be, because a side door into the garage is the opening most often forgotten and left on an old key. Any pin-tumbler cylinder on the property can be pinned to the house key if its keyway allows: the man-door into the garage, a shed, a keyed gate latch, and many padlocks. A mailbox lock is usually a small cam lock that is replaced rather than repinned. Mention every opening when you book so the right blanks and cylinders are in the van.